Camping At Mogao Caves

When we had been at the Mogao Caves the day before, a light breeze whisked through the leaves of the trees planted beside the caves. The next day, though, as we were walking into the desert to find a campsite, the wind whipped across the desert hills. Storming out of the red mountains that face …

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Crescent Lake and the White Horse Pagoda

When we came up on the Crescent Lake, Galen’s disappointment was palpable. Hordes of Chinese tourists in bright orange sand boots milled about. Galen took a few pictures and then shrugged. He asked me to get a video of him being disappointed. I was more prepared. I have walked into too many Chinese tourist traps. …

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Lily’s Neighbors – Part IV

Make sure to read the previous posts: here is the first, the second and the third post. These three posts will give the background necessary to understand this sad post, the final in the series of post at Lily’s house in Drink Horse One Army. On our first evening in the village, Lily’s father took …

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Lily’s Family – Part III

Make sure to check out Part I and Part II before reading this post. Lily’s mother was waiting for us in the basketball court as Mr. Gao’s van pulled up. She was well dressed for a middle-aged village woman, wearing tight pants, high heels and pearls. I greeted her warmly, and she welcomed us into …

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Village Settings – Part II

Make sure to check out Part I of this story. We arrived in Yumen, Jade Gate, a tiny Silk Road town that, like so many places in China, had no vestiges of its history remaining. I called the number Lily had given us, and, a few minutes later, Mr. Gao appeared with his van. We …

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